Horticulture Newsletter April 2022
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TIPS FROM ANNETTE
Ready to garden? Let the fun begin! Keep the following tips in mind.
· It is best to avoid applying fertilizer to the lawn in the spring. Fertilize in the fall for best results.
· Avoid fertilizing trees and most shrubs in the spring. Best growing results occur when fertilizer is applied in the fall.
· Wait to prune crepe myrtles until late April to early May. This plant leafs out late.
· Cool season crops like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, and spinach, can be planted now in the garden, raised beds, and containers.
· Wait to plant tomato plants and squash until the last week of April but be ready to cover them for protection from the cold. Plant pepper plants the first week of May. These are warm season crops. Squash, cucumber, and watermelon also prefer to grow under warm weather conditions.
· In order to have pumpkins for fall and Halloween decorations, wait to plant the seed until June around Father’s Day.
· If unable to identify a plant problem, weed or insect pest, contact us at the Daviess County Cooperative Extension Service for assistance.
Try a new flowering annual or different variety of vegetable to discover something new for your garden
UPCOMING EVENTS
Owensboro Regional Farmers’ Market
Opening day April 16, 2022
1205 Triplet Street Owensboro, KY
8:00 a.m. - Noon
Come out and shop for fresh produce, fresh baked goods, fresh flowers, meats, fish, dairy products, homemade soaps and lotions, jams and jellies, crocheted towels and potholders, gourds, and so much more.
Growing and Using Microgreens: Virtual Program through the Daviess County Public Library
Facebook Live - https://www.dcplibrary.org/
Tuesday, April 26, 2022 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.
Dr. Annette Heisdorffer and Katie Alexander from the local Extension Office provide mega details including how to grow them and which seeds to use.
Growing Cucumbers, Squash, and Pumpkins: Virtual Program through the Daviess County Public Library Facebook Live - https://www.dcplibrary.org/
Tuesday, May 18, 2022 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.
Dr. Annette Heisdorffer from the local Extension Office discusses how to grow different types of cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins in the garden or raised bed.
LARGE JORO SPIDERS LIKELY WILL NOT IMPACT KENTUCKY
By: Katie Pratt, Agricultural Communications Specialist
Joro spiders, which are the size of a human palm and can fall from great heights, should pose little concern for most Kentuckians. Jonathan Larson, University of Kentucky entomologist, does not expect the large spider to appear in the state this year.
“The Joro spider has attracted a lot national attention recently because of reports regarding its potential range expansion along the East Coast this summer and beyond,” said Larson, extension entomologist in the UK College of Agriculture, Food and Environment. “Its numbers have been growing since it was first found in 2014 in Georgia. Given the natural expansion rate of the spider, it is unlikely we will see it in the Bluegrass any time soon. Though, you never say never.”
A lot of the media attention regarding this spider has focused on their size and ability to “parachute” into new areas.
“It is a large spider, and their babies will ‘balloon’ into new areas, but this is true of how many of our native spider species disperse into new areas as well,” Larson said. “A big spider can’t float away on a silk strand. You won’t see spiders the size of a kid’s hand floating through the sky. It is just the ones that have emerged from eggs recently.”
While their size is imposing and may make some people shudder, Larson said the spiders are mostly harmless.
“Their venom is not considered medically important to people or pets, and like most spider species, they aren’t looking to bite things they can’t eat if they can help it,” he said. “Typically, the larger the spider, the less potent their venom.”
While it is worrisome that the non-native Joro spiders’ range is predicted to expand, little is known about how it will behave in new environments.
“It’s true that a potentially invasive species expanding its range like this is a cause for concern,” he said. “However, we’re still not 100% sure of the ecological impact of the Joro spider when it moves into new areas.”
One of the biggest annoyances reported by people living in areas where the spider is already established is the size of their webs. Joro spiders’ webs can be meters long and are stronger than the webs of native spiders. People may accidentally run into them and find them more annoying to untangle from.
Kentucky is home to several spiders that are similar to the Joro spiders in size and color. These include the banded garden spider, black and yellow garden spider and the golden silk orb weaver. Each of these spiders will have different colorations and leg fuzziness than the Joro spider. These spiders are also harmless to people and pets.
UK entomologists want to hear from those who suspect they have found a Joro spider in Kentucky so they can help identify the possible suspect. Individuals can submit spider photos for identification to UK entomology’s Kentucky Bugs Facebook page @kentuckybugs.
Contact: Dr. Jonathan Larson, University of Kentucky Extension Entomologist
SPRING GARDEN TILLING
Source: Ray Tackett, UK Extension Horticulture Agent
Home gardeners might be experiencing “spring fever” with the warmer temperatures and in a rush to do spring tilling. But keep in mind, the ground is still wet from a lot of rain. Don’t till the ground too early and potentially damage the very structure of your garden soil that could last for years to come.
Tilling your garden while it is still wet can destroy valuable soil structure. Soil structure describes the arrangement of the solid parts of the soil and the pore space located between them. Once that soil structure has been destroyed, it is not easily re-established. The pore spacing is critical for overall plant health and root development. Soil that has been tilled when wet will often form soil “clods” that can give you problems later on and can be difficult to deal with. In addition, foot traffic on wet soil can do as much damage in some cases as tilling when the soil is wet.
Also, if your soil contains even a moderate amount of clay, tilling with the right moisture content is even more important. One way to do a moisture check is a quick “squeeze test” to determine if you can till the soil. Take a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball in your hand. If pressure from your fingertips causes the ball to crumble, the soil content should be good for tilling. Another option is to drop the soil ball from about waist high. As you might expect, if the ball shatters when dropped, it may be dry enough to work the soil without destroying the structure.
If you plan on adding soil amendments such as compost, it is good to work those into your soil early in the season. Be sure to blend any amendments thoroughly into the soil with a shovel or spading fork. Hand mixing in smaller areas is sometimes a better option than tilling compost into the soil with a rototiller. These warm, sunny spring days can be the best opportunity to work the compost into your soil. It’s important to remember that compost that has been sitting on top of your garden as a mulch has been insulating the soil too. The insulation effect can keep the soil from warming up and drying out. Mixing that compost into the soil will help speed up the warming process and could allow you to get plants into the ground sooner.
Contact the Daviess County office of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for information on spring garden tilling
PEST AND PESTICIDES AROUND THE HOME
Your home should be a place where you feel safe and secure. But finding insects and other pests in your home can feel like an unwelcome intrusion or an uncontrolled invasion.
There are several different types of pest groups that can be found in the home, including those that are just looking for a protected place to pass the winter (lady bugs and cluster flies), those foraging or feeding on other insects (spiders and centipedes), ones that feed on products within the home (cockroaches and carpet beetles), pests that feed on us or our pets (bed bugs and fleas), or even ones that feed directly on our homes (termites and powderpost beetles).
Pest infestations or the waste they leave behind in the home can also trigger allergic reactions for some occupants. While many people would prefer not to use an insecticide in or around their homes, they may be willing to make an exception when their home is under attack.
Pesticides, along with other tactics, can be used to effectively manage pests in the home when used correctly. However, pesticide use can present its own set of risks and hazards when used improperly. Here is a list of advisory steps to ensure pesticides are used safely in and around the home.
· Be sure you use the proper pesticide for the problem. Have the pest properly identified; this can be done through your local Extension office. You may also want to check with your county Extension agent to determine if a pesticide is actually needed. If one is suggested, then make sure it is approved for use with the type of location where it will be used and that the pest needing to be controlled is on the label. If the location is not on the label, it may not be safe (or legal) to use the pesticide in that situation, and if the pest is not on the label, it may not help to control the problem.
· Read the label carefully. The label is the law and you must follow the label directions. By following the label directions, you can feel assured that they product has been thoroughly tested and is approved for that specific use.
· Follow all label directions. This includes using the correct rate or dosage, preparing the necessary dilution, and observing any use restrictions. Many pesticide labels have restrictions that state “Only for professional use” or “Not for use in residential areas.” Restricted Use Pesticides (RUPs) can be used only by certified applicators and are not to be used around the home.
· Do not use household items to measure, mix, or apply pesticides. Only use items that are only for pesticide use and marked properly so that they are not used for other purposes around the home. Only mix up the amount of pesticide that you intend to apply that day and apply all of the pesticide you mixed up according to the directions on the label. Never dispose of pesticides down a drain.
· Think about your own safety when using pesticides, including what you are wearing. The label will list required minimum personal protective equipment (PPE), but if nothing is listed, I would suggest plastic gloves, shoes and socks, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt as minimum work clothes when handling or applying pesticides.
· Keep other people, children, and pests out of the area when applying pesticides. Check the label to see when it is safe to have people and pets return. If the label doesn’t address this, a good rule of thumb is to wait at least until sprays have thoroughly dried. All pesticide labels state, “Keep out of reach of children.”
· When you are done, you need to clean up. If you are using any reusable personal protective equipment like gloves or goggles, these need to be washed in soap and water and rinsed. At a minimum, wash your hands and face with soap and water as well. Do this before eating, drinking, or smoking. Wash your clothes separately from those of your family.
· Store your pesticides in a safe location where others, particularly children and pets, don’t have access to them. The last section of the label will outline the storage requirements for the particular pesticides (for example, avoid extreme temperatures or store above 40°F).
Only by carefully reading and following the label directions can we be assured that the pesticide we are using has been properly studied and the use approved.
PRUNING CLEMATIS
Source: Dennis Morgeson, Washing County Agent for Horticulture
There may be no prettier climbing plant than the clematis. These hardy vines clamor over trellises, fences, and even trees and shrubs. They produce flowers in three general forms: small white flowers (now a purple variety as well) in panicles or loose irregular spreading clusters (generally autumn blooming), bell or urn-shaped flowers, and flat open flowers. They have four to eight petals and come in an array of colors. Most gardeners’ plant clematis knowing that they prefer full sun and a thick layer of mulch to keep their roots cool in the summer; however, very few gardeners know how to prune these beautiful vines.
The main purpose of pruning clematis is to maximize flower production. Generally, it is a good idea to prune your clematis annually however timing will vary with variety. There are three major methods and classifications for how and when to prune depending on when your clematis flowers. If you don’t prune your clematis at all it will still bloom, however, the blooms will be at the top of the plant out of sight.
Clematis that bloom in early spring (April and May) flower from buds produced the previous season and are called group A clematis. This means they flower on old wood and should be pruned once immediately after flowering. If your prune in the spring, you will remove your flowers. By pruning immediately after flowering allows for the new growth to harden, age through the growing season, and set flower buds in the fall for early spring flower. To prune group a clematis cut outshoots that flowered previously in the spring. You can prune out other shoots as well to reduce the plant size, however, leave large woody stems and trunks for new growth production.
Large, flowered clematis or group B, flower in mid-June on short stems from the previous season’s growth and again later in the summer on new growth. This clematis should be pruned in February or March to remove dead and weak stems. The remaining vines should be pruned back to the topmost pair of plump green buds. These plants tend to become bare at the base and can be pruned back to the base after spring flowering every few years to force more flowers at the base. You can also underplant with other flowers to hide the bare base.
Late flowering or group C clematis flower on the bottom two or three feet of the current season’s growth. Some will bloom in mid-June, and some will bloom into the fall. This is the easiest group to prune because old wood doesn’t have to be maintained for flower production. In February or March cut each stem to about two to three feet and prune out any dead or weak vines. Don’t prune again during the current growing season.
Clematis is a beautiful vine that is hardy and relatively easy to maintain with very few pests and disease problems. By following a few easy pruning steps your clematis will be the envy of the neighborhood!
ASPARAGUS HAM QUICHE
Ingredients:
1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 cup, finely chopped ham
1 small finely chopped onion
2 (8 inch) unbaked pie shells
1 egg white, slightly beaten
2 cups shredded reduced fat cheddar cheese
4 large eggs
1 container (5.3 ounces) plain Greek yogurt
1/3 cup 1% milk
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Yield:
16 slices
Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 F. Place asparagus in a steamer over 1 inch of boiling water and cover. Cook until tender but still firm, about 4-6 minutes. Drain and cool. Place ham and onion in a nonstick skillet and cook over medium heat until lightly browned. Brush pie shells with beaten egg white. Spoon the ham, onion and asparagus into pie shells, dividing evenly between the 2 shells. Sprinkle 1 cup shredded cheese over the mixture in each shell. In a separate bowl, beat together eggs, yogurt, milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour egg mixture over the top of the cheese, dividing evenly between the 2 shells. Bake uncovered in a preheated oven until firm 25-30 minutes. Allow to cool approximately 20 minutes before cutting.
Nutritional Analysis:
200 calories,
11 g fat
4.5 g saturated fat
65 mg cholesterol
370 mg sodium
14 g carbohydrate
1 g fiber
3 g sugars
10 g protein
PLANT OF THE MONTH
Fothergilla ‘Mount Airy’
Common Name: Dwarf fothergilla
Type: Deciduous shrub
Zone: 4 to 8
Height: 3 - 6 feet
Spread: 3 - 5 feet
Bloom Time: April to early May
Bloom Description: White bottlebrush
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium
Maintenance: Low
Flower: Showy, fragrant
Leaf: Good fall color
Source: North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox and Missouri Botanical Garden
